The worst place to learn chains is the shoulder of I-80 in a storm. Ten minutes in your driveway first makes the real thing easy.
Before the trip
- Buy the right size. The size is on your tire sidewall (like 225/65R17). Many newer cars need low-clearance “Class S” chains; check the owner’s manual.
- Check which wheels. Chains go on the drive wheels: front on front-wheel drive, rear on rear-wheel drive. AWD: follow the manual.
- Practice once at home, dry, with the instructions.
- Pack a kit: gloves, a headlamp, a trash bag or mat to kneel on, and a towel.
On the mountain
- Pull fully off at a signed chain-up area. Hazards on, parking brake on.
- Lay each chain flat behind the tire, untangled, hooks facing out.
- Drape it over the top of the tire and tuck it behind.
- Connect the inside fastener first, then the outside one.
- Pull the tensioner or cams snug, as the instructions say.
- Drive forward slowly about a quarter mile, stop, and re-tighten. They always loosen.
Mistakes that break chains
- Spinning the tires: ease on the gas.
- Driving too fast: stay at the posted chain speed, usually 25 to 35 mph.
- Driving on bare pavement: take them off once you are past the snow.
- Loose chains slapping the wheel well: stop and re-tighten.
No time or no gloves?
Many chain-up areas have licensed installers who charge to put chains on. They are independent, not Caltrans employees, and they cannot sell you chains, so you still need your own.
Sources: Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority, Weathering the Storm; your vehicle owner’s manual. Rules change; always follow posted signs and road crews.